Contact us. Request After-sale Service. After-sales Service Polices. Close cart. Filament 1kg PLA. Sold Out. Product Description. Rigid Metal Frame Stable structure could reduce the body shake during printing and improve the printing quality. Double Z Limit Switches Double Z axis double drive, more powerful and brings more accuracy for leveling. Fast Assembly Only need to install 8 screws and connect 3 wires before the first print. Quick Start 3 Steps Fast Assembly: Modular design with quick assembly lets you start printing straight away.
Ultrabase Platforms Easy to take off models by hand or with a little help from the scrapper for very large models. Resume Print One click to continue with the last printing from power off. Tool set. Card reader. SD card. User manual.
Anycubic Mega X: Cura Machine Settings and Cura Profile
Power cord. USB cable. Anycubic Care. Mega-S Upgraded Firmware V1. Test model. We offer excellent after-sales service.Close menu. Photon Series. Mega Series. UV Resin. About Anycubic. Affiliate Program Reseller Program.How To Add The Anycubic Mega-S To Cura
Easy Leveling Quickly locate the corners of the print platform during leveling, maximize printing efficiency. Resume from Power Outage One key to resume in case of umexpected power outage, save your time and filaments. High Precision High precision aluminum frame and closed loop design at the bottom ensure a more stable structure.
Dual Y-axis improves the stability of platform. High Reliable Power Use power supply from world-famous brand, compliance with UL, enhance the safety performance. Tool set. Card reader. SD card. User manual. Power cord. USB cable. Anycubic Care. Test model. We offer excellent after-sales service. Please click here for details. Bulk Order Request Name.Close menu. Photon Series. Mega Series. UV Resin.
AnyCubic i3 Mega Tuning
Effortless Leveling Big leveling knob is much more convenient to grip, significantly save you effort. Dual Screw Rod Z-axis dual screw rod design decreases the likelihood of print errors. Dual Sideway Use customized aluminum module for Y axis on heat bed base, dual lead rail design inproves the stability of heat bed.
Powerful Extruder Strong extruder provides a better printing experience, compatible with flexible filaments such as TPU.A simpler, smarter and more practical philosophy has been applied to create high-quality 3D printers to meet professional and daily life needs. Our goal is 'The most popular 3D printer brand' based on quality products, fast service and innovative functions to improve living quality and contribute to social development. Close menu. Photon Series. Mega Series. UV Resin.
About Anycubic. Affiliate Program Reseller Program.
Include Filament None. Add to cart. Product Description. Printing Platform Strong adhesive when platform's hot and easy to remove when cool down. Filament Sensor Provides better printing experience of flexible.
Fast Assembly Only need to install 8 screws and connect 3 wires before the first print. Rigid Metal Frame The structure is very stable which could reduce the body shake druing printing and improve the printing quality.
Cura recommended settings
Suspended Filament Rack One-piece hanging design, simple and beautiful. The feeding of filament is smoother and the storage of filament is more convenint. High Quality Extruder Provides better printing experience of flexible. Tool set. Card reader. SD card. User manual.Then, consult the following guide.
The very first step is to get the first layer adjusted. Fortunately with Marlin, this is quite easy and you can use mesh bed levelling. Get the bed fairly flat initially using the normal levelling technique that the AnyCubic includes, then follow this guide. Use a thin piece of paper thermoprint receipt paper is perfectand do it while the bed and nozzle is hot.
The next part is to calibrate the extruder stepper. I measured out mm of filament, and told it to extrude mm. A longer length gives better accuracy. Read the calibration guide for instructions.
After doing that, measure the thickness of your filament in a few points and adjust the filament thickness in Cura to suit. In my case, my filament is a LOT thicker than 1. Now you have your extruder calibrated, you can print a calibration cube. At this point, all your axes should be calibrated, your bed is level, and you know how thick your filament is - so the majority of the dimensional calibrations are done.
You next need to print a temperature tower. However, this will require some manipulation in Cura to make it work. Consult the readme, and in there you will find a list of the layer Z heights that should correspond to what temperatures. From there, you can use Cura extensions to fix it.
Click Add a script again, and repeat. Print it off, and then examine it. Select the temperature that looks best for me that was degreesand that will be your new default print temperature. What works for you may be different from what works for me, but I adjusted the following settings and got fairly good results so far this is all based from the default Normal profile.
After all the above is done, you should have your temperatures dialed in, Cura set up with some useful parameters, and your axes all calibrated. Your bed should be flat. Next up is to tweak the G-Code used to start the build. This procedure prints a short line of filament at the front of the bed before wiping the nozzle away to clear it.
This is pretty similar to the default Cura settings for the AnyCubic. A few things warrant talking about though. This should be done just after reaching the home position. The steps after mesh leveling and before the final platform position change setting the head 15mm above the platform perform the wipe. Ok, that was a lot.By Antog89September 17, in Italiano.
Ciao a tutti. Ho acquistato da poco la i3 Mega S e volevo sapere se qualcun'altro ne era in possesso e che impostazioni usava su cura 4. Non sarebbe male neanche sapere se avete modificato il materiale io ho quello anycubic sempre PLA. Sono passato dal non riuscire neanche a completare la famosa "3D benchy" Al farla quasi perfettamente wobble a parte con uno slicer della concorrenza. Grazie mille a tutti per il contributo. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment.
Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account? Sign In Now. Go To Topic Listing. Coronavirus: Let's do our part SandervG posted a topic in Official newsMarch 20 Through this post I would like to further explain what we are doing, and what you could be doing. Our efforts consist of 2 layers. First; connect medical institutions and hospitals to local 3D Printing hubs to help them print parts of which a 3D model already exists. And second, contribute to design the necessary part and then have it printed via a local 3D printing hub.Hey guys, I'm having a hard time trying to get a nice first layer, I used the cura settings from the anycubic website but didn't get good results, can someone give me his working settings please?
Thanks :. These are my thoughts on first layer: Do the paper thing, but this won't be enough to get it perfect, which it needs to be.
Then you load up some good quality filament that has good diameter tolerance. It needs to be 1. You might need to print of these to get the feel and come out with a perfect first layer. And next step is to enjoy your lovely first layers. If you change filament and get lines that separate you probably have a filament not thick enough so you need to set this in cura. Either make a custom filament profile where you set the diameter to 1. One last word: As a beginner I used to think it was so rediculous when I read people being such perfectionists but the more I have been printing the more I have realized how every micrometer counts.
It's just that sensitive. I'd recommend upgrading the firmware too, that will ensure perfect first layers. It's good to know that people help : I did upgrade the firmware, I did chose the I3 mega "default" profile when I had the new machine.
My bed is perfectly leveled. I played with the initial layer height and layer height settings with no succes. Here are the pictures of a print and my settings.
Looks to me like you have too much space between the bed and the head. Your lines aren't touching each other, or squashed down at all. Mine look flattened, and they're fused to each other. What are you using to level? I'd really recommend the new firmware upgrade, tons of improvements. I'll try to level it again, what do you guys use for layer height? I use the paper that it on the bed when you unbox it. For the firmware, which one?
I tried witht he 1. I did use that paper that protects the ultrabase to set the gap